What exactly is ruby chocolate? Its identity can be traced through its origins, its appearance, its texture, its aroma, and its flavor. As Barry Callebaut’s global vice president of marketing, Bas Smit, articulated to Food Dive, it is the only chocolate that caters to the human desire for hedonistic indulgence. However, the official definition from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is notably absent. While federal regulations provide a comprehensive outline for cacao products, detailing the types of products derived from cacao beans, the required quantities, and permissible flavoring and emulsification agents, ruby chocolate is not included. The FDA only recognizes sweet chocolate—encompassing dark, milk, and white varieties—along with allowances for mixing cacao products with various dairy components.
Despite the absence of a formal definition, Barry Callebaut announced on Tuesday that it will be making ruby chocolate widely accessible to confectioners in the United States and Canada—regions where the demand for this unique chocolate has been steadily increasing. “Ruby is now available in over 40 countries worldwide,” Smit mentioned in April from the company’s Americas headquarters in Chicago. “A quick Google search reveals more than 120 million hits about it. It even made an appearance on ‘Saturday Night Live’ and at the Oscars.”
Laura Bergan, Barry Callebaut’s director of innovation for specialties marketing, informed Food Dive that ruby chocolate items are expected to hit North American shelves as soon as next month, with many more products slated for release throughout the year. She also expressed optimism about potentially labeling ruby as “chocolate” on food packaging soon, noting that discussions with the FDA have been encouraging.
Ruby chocolate is derived from a unique variety of cacao beans, first discovered by Barry Callebaut scientists over a generation ago. These beans are cultivated in Brazil, Ecuador, and the Ivory Coast, and it took years for scientists to perfect the process of creating this pink-hued chocolate. When the product now known as ruby chocolate was initially developed by Barry Callebaut, the company conducted consumer research in China, the U.S., and the U.K. to understand why people in different regions enjoy chocolate. They found that chocolate can fulfill six human needs, and during a taste test, the dark pink confection created by their research and development team emerged as something special. “It turned out to satisfy unique needs, known as hedonistic indulgence,” Smit stated. “It was the only chocolate that achieved this. This realization led us to conclude, ‘We have the fourth type of chocolate.’”
The term hedonistic indulgence evokes a sense of carefree decadence—perfectly encapsulating the experience of enjoying fine chocolate alone. Ruby chocolate boasts a sensuous dusty rose hue and a delicate eggshell shimmer. Its aroma is reminiscent of milk chocolate, accompanied by a hint of enticing sweetness. On the palate, it melts faster than most chocolates, delivering a flavor profile that combines elements of berry candy and fine milk chocolate. Unlike the bitterness of dark chocolate, ruby chocolate showcases a delightful balance between sweetness, fruitiness, freshness, and acidity, resulting in a distinctive sensory experience.
As part of its launch strategy, Barry Callebaut engaged 11 millennial designers to express the concept of hedonistic indulgence for their generation. Millennials, Smit noted, are “eager for intense sensory delights” and often have disposable income since they tend to prefer sharing services like Uber and Airbnb over traditional ownership. Consequently, it is no surprise that millennials in Asia, where ruby chocolate debuted in 2017, willingly paid approximately $3 for a piece of this rose-colored confection.
Ruby chocolate was first introduced in Shanghai in September 2017, a strategic choice due to China’s status as a trendsetter for luxury brands. Japan became the first country where consumers could purchase ruby chocolate en masse. “Japan serves as the gateway to global acceptance of new flavors and textures,” Smit explained. “Once it gains traction in Japan, it typically takes about a year and a half to reach the United States and an additional year and a half to reach Europe. Unlocking the Japanese market was crucial; if Japanese consumers embraced it, we could expect it to spread worldwide.”
Ruby chocolate has indeed made a successful global journey. Nearly 30 brands are currently using Barry Callebaut’s chocolate to create the pink confection, with more expected to join. In the U.S., ruby chocolate has generated considerable excitement, not merely as a travel souvenir. In 2019, Barry Callebaut worked closely with select vendors to produce this pink chocolate. Some consumers have been able to find ruby chocolate wafers at select Trader Joe’s locations, the online boutique Harry & David, premium chocolate manufacturer Chocolove, and a few high-end chocolate shops in Chicago. Bergan noted that the companies selling ruby chocolate are well-established in the premium chocolate market, and their distribution has been tightly controlled to build consumer interest in the U.S. and to provide evidence for discussions with the FDA.
However, the regulatory agency has yet to update its definition of “chocolate,” which complicates the labeling of these products. Currently, all ruby chocolate items are labeled as “ruby cacao,” with the term “chocolate” absent from packaging. Bergan mentioned that Barry Callebaut is working with the FDA to revise the standards of identity for chocolate, a lengthy process. The positive reception of the initial ruby chocolate offerings will play a significant role in this endeavor. The company has submitted a request for a temporary marketing permit that would allow the product to be labeled as “chocolate” for 18 months while the FDA reviews the petition. Bergan expressed optimism that discussions regarding this permit are nearing a conclusion.
In response to inquiries from Food Dive, FDA spokesperson Nathan Arnold noted in an email that changes to identity standards are infrequent, with the last update occurring in 2002 when white chocolate was defined. “We require food labeling to be truthful and not misleading, evaluating each case individually,” Arnold wrote. “We consider the terms used within the context of the entire label when assessing compliance with our requirements.” Until the FDA issues permits or revises chocolate identity standards, Barry Callebaut will continue to advise its manufacturing partners to label products as “ruby cacao.”
As a provider of chocolate ingredients, Barry Callebaut does not produce confections itself but collaborates with chocolate manufacturers, bakeries, and other chocolate-related businesses. Ruby chocolate will soon be accessible to all these partners. “We believe consumers should dictate the ruby chocolate experience, and we want to hear from them as makers,” Smit stated. “If they prefer more intense berry flavors or deeper ruby hues, we welcome that feedback. Just as there are countless varieties of milk and dark chocolate, there will also be a vast array of ruby chocolate options in the future.”
The potential for innovation is immense. While ruby chocolate has found success in Europe, particularly as a Kit Kat variant, it can also be transformed into diverse forms such as ice cream, truffles, and cakes. Smit noted that ruby chocolate pairs wonderfully with champagne, venturing into a territory where chocolate has seldom tread. Although ruby chocolate is expected to be viewed as a premium item, it may also appear in mass-produced confectionery products.
Consumer studies on ruby chocolate outside of Barry Callebaut have been limited, but indications suggest it is gaining popularity in the U.S. Chocolate is a lucrative industry. According to Zion Market Research, the global chocolate market was valued at $103.3 billion in 2017, with projections estimating it will reach approximately $161.6 billion by 2024, growing at a compound annual growth rate of 7%. Research from Mintel, provided by Barry Callebaut, indicates that ruby chocolate could potentially surpass white chocolate in popularity, capturing around 10% of the global market share.
Christopher Gindlesperger, senior vice president of public affairs and communications at the National Confectioners Association, shared with Food Dive that chocolate constitutes about 60% of the total candy market, with a 1% growth in chocolate sales last year. “Premium chocolate continues to gain traction—this segment has driven overall chocolate category growth, with over 19% growth in the premium chocolate sector in 2018,” he noted.
Amid the excitement surrounding this Instagram-ready confection in millennial pink, Smit emphasized that ruby chocolate offers much more than just a striking color. “It’s all about the taste,” he asserted. “Color is secondary. Consumers are drawn to ruby chocolate primarily for its unique flavor. That’s why it isn’t referred to as pink chocolate or rose chocolate. Ruby evokes the essence of a gemstone. It represents a premium, precious experience, which inspired its name.” Additionally, ruby chocolate contains beneficial ingredients such as calcium citrate and magnesium citrate, which could further enhance its appeal in the market.