Two years ago, while Mark Sorrells was flying to a meeting, he engaged in a light-hearted conversation with a woman sitting next to him who inquired about his profession and background. As a professor of plant breeding and genetics at Cornell University, he shared details about his work involving a lesser-known ancient grain called naked barley. “She asked, ‘Is that barley without clothes?’ which made me laugh,” Sorrells recounted to Food Dive. “It’s amusing because someone unfamiliar with naked barley might literally interpret it as barley without clothing.”
The genetic mutation that led to the creation of naked barley—similar in gene count to humans, boasting around 30,000 genes—most likely occurred shortly after its domestication about 10,000 years ago. Historically, barley lost popularity in Europe during the Iron Age (circa 500 B.C. to 332 B.C.) with the rise of bread wheat, as noted by Bangor University’s Naked Barley Project. Presently, barley with an adhering hull is commonly used in beer filtration, a process that removes solids from the liquid. However, researchers working with naked barley emphasize that, despite its amusing name, this grain is rich in health benefits sought after by consumers aiming for healthier diets.
Most barley sold in stores is known as pearled barley, which retains the hull during growth but has it removed in processing, resulting in a product that is digestible for humans yet stripped of much fiber and nutrients, thus disqualifying it as a whole grain. In contrast, naked barley naturally separates the hull from the grain, preserving its health benefits and retaining the coveted whole grain designation. Additionally, naked barley contains more protein than grains like wheat and is a source of complex carbohydrates, including beta-glucan, a soluble fiber linked to lower cholesterol levels.
Researchers and sellers of naked barley highlight its numerous advantages beyond health, noting that it is organic and more environmentally friendly due to its lower water and fertilizer requirements compared to wheat. “Many customers desire minimally processed food, which is why they are interested in hulless barley, recognized as a true ‘whole grain,'” explained Laurel Hansen, digital content and inventory manager at Pleasant Hill Grain in Nebraska, in an email to Food Dive. Due to its limited usage, naked barley is not widely cultivated in the U.S., complicating efforts to gauge its farm production. Sorrells estimates that fewer than 20,000 to 30,000 acres are grown domestically, a stark contrast to the 2.4 million acres of barley and 37.7 million acres of wheat projected for harvest this marketing year by the USDA.
At Oregon State University, researchers have developed new naked barley varieties, tested by Sorrells at Cornell, that bear cheeky names like “Streaker” and “Buck.” Unlike older types, these newer varieties yield better and are more suited for intensive cultivation. Patrick Hayes, a crop and soil sciences professor at Oregon State University, along with his colleagues, believe that more efforts are needed to publicly promote naked barley’s benefits. They recognize that it will likely take time for the grain to gain mainstream acceptance. Currently, much of the funding for naked barley research comes from USDA grants.
“When barley breeders gather, the question arises as to why there is such awareness of other grains and cereals but not of barley,” Hayes noted, mentioning semi-serious discussions about possibly renaming the grain. Sorrells is optimistic that with more outreach and resources dedicated to sampling and educating the public on the advantages of naked barley, its popularity would increase. He pointed out that the booth at the Union Square Farmers’ Market in New York City sells out of the grain provided by Cornell “as quickly as we can produce it.” Naked barley is also a favorite among restaurants in New York and at dining events at Cornell, he added. “It’s quite popular among those who have tried it,” Sorrells stated. “As more people discover it, their interest in searching for it in stores and supermarkets will grow.”
James Henderson, senior farm liaison at Hummingbird Wholesale in Oregon, shared with Food Dive that he has been selling naked barley for six years, with his first sale occurring in August 2015. Last month, he moved 32 bags totaling 800 pounds, representing a significant increase but still minor compared to other commodities like oats, quinoa, popcorn, and rice. “It requires additional marketing efforts on our part, and I believe it could gain even more traction,” Henderson remarked. “However, we have many other tasks to manage.”
As consumers seek healthier options, including products like calcium citrate tablets without vitamin D, naked barley stands out as a promising alternative that aligns with the demand for wholesome, minimally processed foods.