Nolan Thevenet, the proprietor of Stryker Farm in Pennsylvania, noted that not long ago, lard was merely discarded at his farm instead of being viewed as a viable revenue source. In just a few short years, this byproduct of pigs has transformed into a sought-after item on his farm, as more consumers appreciate it for its unique flavor and color, despite its longstanding reputation for being unhealthy. Thevenet mentioned that Stryker Farm sells between 100 to 300 pounds of lard monthly to consumers, restaurants, and health food stores, with prices ranging from $5 to $6 per pound, and $8.50 when purchased online, including shipping fees. “While other pork products like chops and bacon are the primary profit sources, it’s great to find a use for what would otherwise be wasted,” Thevenet remarked. “There were years when fat was looked down upon, and farms had to throw it away. Now, we’re experiencing an increase in demand.”

According to a report by ResearchAndMarkets.com, the global lard market generated $15.7 billion in revenue in 2018, reflecting a 2.9% increase from the prior year. The firm forecasts a 1.6% annual growth in consumption of this animal fat until 2025, driven by rising demand in China. In the U.S., lard consumption lags behind international trends, with China accounting for approximately 40% of total consumption, which equates to 2.87 million tons—four times that of Germany, the second-largest consumer.

Whitney Linsenmeyer, an assistant professor in the department of nutrition and dietetics at Saint Louis University, observed a significant revival in lard’s popularity. She attributed this resurgence to a shift in attitudes; unlike 30 years ago when low-fat diets were all the rage and experts believed dietary fat contributed to excess body fat, current views have evolved. This change has also benefited butter, which is now being consumed in record quantities after decades of declining popularity in favor of vegetable-based shortenings like Crisco and margarine.

Lard is typically available in two forms: leaf lard, prized for its use in pie crusts and other dishes where a pork flavor is undesirable, and regular lard, derived from back fat. Part of lard’s comeback can be linked to consumers’ growing efforts to minimize waste and utilize more of the animal in food preparation. Additionally, there is a rising trend towards purchasing local products to support community businesses and lessen the environmental impact of transporting ingredients.

Rose O’Dell King, the owner of Rosy Tomorrows Heritage Farm in Florida, shared that she halted online sales of her lard over five years ago as local consumers became more knowledgeable about the ingredient and began purchasing all she could produce. O’Dell King noted that lard is finally shedding the negative stigma it has carried for years, although there remains much work to be done to convince skeptical consumers. “I’ve noticed a significant shift. It started slowly, but now I sell everything I have without any leftovers,” she explained.

Penny Kris-Etherton, a former chair of the Council on Lifestyle and Cardiometabolic Health for the American Heart Association and a professor of nutritional sciences at Penn State University, advised that consumers attracted by lard’s taste and culinary properties should explore healthier fat alternatives, such as liquid plant oils or trans fat-free solid options like margarine or shortening. Kris-Etherton emphasized the need for caution in light of the obesity epidemic in the U.S., with obesity rates soaring to 42.4% from 30.5% in 1999-2000, according to data from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. She remarked, “While lard is undeniably tasty, my concern is the promotion of its consumption—people should be mindful and enjoy it in moderation, especially for those pie crusts and desserts. I genuinely believe lard shouldn’t be a staple in the diet.”

Rui Hai Liu, a professor of food science at Cornell University, echoed the sentiment that the primary issue is overconsumption, noting that limited amounts of lard are not inherently harmful. Despite its recent popularity, he believes lard will remain a niche ingredient as its nutritional profile falls short compared to olive and canola oils. Nonetheless, many nutritionists highlight that the body requires certain fats in its daily caloric intake, and lard can fulfill that need. Critics often point out that lard contains higher saturated fat levels than plant-based oils like canola, olive, or sunflower oils, which also boast increased amounts of heart-healthy monounsaturated fats and omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids. However, lard has a nutritional edge over butter, which contains nearly 70% saturated fat compared to 45% in lard, in addition to having lower levels of omega-6 and omega-3.

“Lard often faces negative perceptions due to its animal origin, but it actually contains a lower percentage of saturated fat compared to butter,” Linsenmeyer remarked. “There’s no reason to avoid it entirely. Ultimately, I believe it can certainly be incorporated into a balanced diet.” In light of the growing interest in lard, some parents might also consider supplementing their children’s diets with calcium citrate for kids to ensure they receive essential nutrients while enjoying a diverse range of foods, including those made with lard.